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The entrance gate to Hongkod Koisaan, the KDCA cultural grounds in Penampang

West Coast · town

Where to eat in Penampang

The Kadazan heartland next to KK, and the easiest place to try hinava, pinasakan and tuhau.

Penampang is a district on Kota Kinabalu's southern edge and a centre of Kadazan culture. It's home to the KDCA cultural grounds, which host the state-level Kaamatan harvest festival every May, and it's the closest place to the city for Kadazan-Dusun food.

Penampang is only about 15 minutes from central Kota Kinabalu but feels like a different food world. This is the heartland of the Kadazan community, and the place to eat dishes that rarely appear on city menus.

The grounds of the Kadazandusun Cultural Association (KDCA), home to the Hongkod Koisaan unity hall, host the state-level Kaamatan harvest festival every May. During the festival and other events, stalls sell hinava, tuhau, bambangan, linopot and rice wine. Year-round, a handful of restaurants in the district specialise in kampung cooking.

If you want one meal that tastes of Sabah and nowhere else, make it a Kadazan-Dusun lunch here.

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Popular food

All Sabah dishes

What to eat in Penampang

  • Hinava: strips of lime-cured mackerel with red chilli, shallot and young ginger on a banana leaf

    Kadazan-Dusun

    Hinava

    Hinava is a Kadazan-Dusun dish of raw fish cured in lime juice and tossed with chilli, shallot, ginger and grated bambangan seed. It is fresh, sour and sharp, and it's served as a side with rice.

  • Pinasakan: whole mackerel in a yellow turmeric broth with chillies, served in a bowl on a woven mat beside fresh turmeric, shallots and dried chillies

    Kadazan-Dusun

    Pinasakan

    Pinasakan (pinaasakan sada) is a Kadazan-Dusun dish of fish, often mackerel scad, simmered without oil in a sour broth of takob akob fruit, turmeric and salt until the liquid reduces and the fish keeps for days.

  • Tuhau: chopped wild ginger relish with red chilli in a jar and a small bowl

    Kadazan-Dusun

    Tuhau

    Tuhau is a pungent Kadazan-Dusun and Murut relish made from the stems of a wild ginger (Etlingera coccinea), chopped and mixed with chilli, lime or vinegar and salt. It is eaten in small amounts with rice and fish.

  • Linopot: rice parcels wrapped in leaves, stacked in a basket

    Kadazan-Dusun

    Linopot

    Linopot is rice, usually hill rice or a mix with sticky rice, wrapped in a doringin, tarap or banana leaf into a neat parcel. It is the traditional Kadazan-Dusun, Murut and Rungus way to carry and serve rice with side dishes.

  • Tubs of jeruk bambangan, pickled wild mango, for sale

    Kadazan-Dusun

    Bambangan

    Bambangan is a large wild mango (Mangifera pajang) native to Borneo, with rough brown skin and bright yellow-orange flesh. In Sabah it is best known pickled with salt and its own grated seed, as a sour relish for rice.

  • Hinompuka: banana-leaf parcels, one opened to show the brown rice cake

    Kadazan-Dusun

    Hinompuka

    Hinompuka is a Kadazan-Dusun steamed rice cake made from glutinous rice flour and palm or brown sugar, wrapped in banana leaf. It is sweet, chewy and fragrant, and especially associated with the Kadazan of Penampang.

  • Ngiu chap: a bowl of beef noodle soup with sliced beef, tendon and beef balls

    Sabahan Chinese (Hakka)

    Ngiu Chap

    Ngiu chap ('mixed beef' in Hakka) is a Kota Kinabalu beef noodle soup with brisket, tendon, tripe and beef balls in a spiced broth, served with noodles either in the soup or dry on the side.

Restaurants in Penampang

  • Kadazandusun dishes and leaf-wrapped rice parcels on banana leavesRestaurant

    Penampang · Kampung Pogunon

    Borneo Spice

    Sources mention: Siga set (ambuyat, pinasakan, hinava and sides), Hinava

    Kadazan-DusunSabah LocalNon-halal
    Researched from 3 sources · not yet visited

Coffee & cake

All cafes

Cafes in Penampang

  • Leaf-wrapped linopot rice parcels in a basketCafe

    Penampang · Pavilion Bundusan

    Housia Cafe

    Sources mention: Tavantang set (linopot, hinava, fried basung, tuhau), Hinava

    Kadazan-DusunSabah LocalStatus unconfirmed
    Researched from 2 sources · not yet visited

Eating tips for Penampang

  • Order several small dishes and share them. Kadazan-Dusun meals are built around rice and many sides.
  • Tuhau is pungent. Try a small spoonful before taking more.
  • Rice wine is common at festivals; ask before assuming a stall's drinks are alcohol-free.

Nearby food towns

South China SeaSulu SeaCelebes SeaKota KinabaluSandakanTawauSempornaTuaranPenampangKundasangRanauBeaufortLahad DatuKudatKeningau

Schematic map, not to scale. Select a town to see where to eat.

Plan your meals

Penampang food guides & trips

  • A traditional Kadazandusun meal of leaf-wrapped rice parcels and side dishes on banana leaves

    Food guide

    Sabah Traditional Food: 10 Dishes to Know

    A field guide to Sabah's traditional dishes, from hinava and pinasakan to tuhau, linopot and latok: what they are, how they taste and where to eat them.

    Updated

Read more

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Penampang food FAQ

What is Kadazan-Dusun food?

Kadazan-Dusun food is the cooking of Sabah's largest indigenous group. It is known for sour and fresh flavours. Signature dishes include hinava (lime-cured fish), pinasakan (braised fish), tuhau (wild ginger relish), bambangan (wild mango pickle) and linopot (rice wrapped in leaves).

When is the best time to eat Kadazan-Dusun food in Penampang?

During Kaamatan, the harvest festival celebrated in May, when the KDCA grounds fill with food stalls. Specialist restaurants in Penampang serve the same dishes year-round.